CHANTEH

Qashqai flatweave bag with tassels

2012-01-22T15:41:00.001Z

A new purchase, from a dealer in Istanbul. Note the similarity between the back of this bag and that of the preceding chanteh, which was also recently acquired in Istanbul. A similar soft green dye is also evident in some of the details. (I sometimes wonder if sets of bags or rugs from a particular source are found by middlemen and then dispersed to various dealers. Frequently a batch of similar or comparable textiles comes onto the market at the same time; then you don't see their like again for quite a while). The front of this chanteh is unusual: a field full of 'figure' motifs, fairly irregularly dispersed, with some crudely embroidered upside-down animals at the top. The back, on the other hand, is very competently woven (as in the last bag, there is 'shift' in the field, this time about halfway down). A mother and child working together? I really like the irregular pile tufts on the front, which don't seem to be disguising anything at all. They are either simply decorative or, perhaps, are intended, like blue ceramic beads, to ward off the evil eye. It measures 13" by 12" (without tassels).

Qashqai flatweave purse

2012-01-22T15:18:00.002Z

A charming little purse with more green dyes and another white field. If the opening is kept at the top, as it is here, the boteh are upside-down, but the composition reads well nonetheless. The pattern on the reverse turns up on many South Persian flatweave bags and may be attributable to a particular tribe or sub-tribe, but if so I don't know which. Note the horizontal white 'line' on the back, a couple of inches from the top, which marks a shift or change of some kind. 8.5" by 9.5"; purchased from a collector/dealer in Istanbul.

Afshar 'nim-khorjin'

2012-01-22T15:08:00.000Z

The Afshar must surely be the most inventive of all the South Persian tribes when it comes to the design of their bags; this is yet another interesting variation on a central medallion theme. I'm very fond of the asymmetrical composition on the white field (which you seem to find more often on Afshar bags than elsewhere), and of the uncommon green dyes. Fairly finely and densely woven, it measures 11.5" by 13.5" and was bought from a dealer in Holland.

Qashqai double chanteh with medallion

2012-01-22T14:58:00.002Z

Those who have seen the other bags in this collection will quickly realize that I am partial to this composition and colour scheme. This example, purchased from a dealer in England (via another dealer in Holland), shows subtle but clear variations on both sides, which gives it quiet vitality. The 'Qashqai frieze' is woven in pile, which is relatively uncommon. Each bag measures 10" by 13.5".

Luri or Qashqai 'cross' chanteh

2012-01-22T14:48:00.000Z

Until recently bags with this cruciform pattern were considered very rare, and only one example had been published. Then they began to turn up occasionally, and at the recent auction where I bought the preceding double gabbeh there were a handful of fine versions, all attributed to the Luri 'Boyer Ahmadi' tribe. The knowledgeable American dealer from who I bought this bag had his own theory. It may have been woven, he said, as a Khan production piece, or perhaps woven by a tribal woman in an urban environment, where she had been employed for seasonal work. In any event, it is very densely and finely woven, with a deeply depressed warp. The unresolved crosses on the left suggest that whether or not the bag was made in a town or village, it is definitely not far from its tribal sources. It measures 11" by 11.5".

Qashqai double gabbeh chanteh

2012-01-22T14:32:00.002Z

I bought this chanteh after a German auction of a very distinguished collection of South Persian bags and rugs: it didn't attract any bids and in the end turned out to be one of the cheapest items at the sale. Not surprising, really, as it breaks all the rules: vivid dyes, coarse construction, some tribal mending, and so forth. But I really like it: the strange pile tufts around the periphery of the central flatweave field, the crazy sense of order, the bravado... Each bag measures 9.5" by 10".

Afshar gabbeh purse

2012-01-22T13:46:00.001Z

One of my earlier acquisitions (from a Dutch dealer on eBay), this little bag remains one of my favourites. There is no way of telling whether it was an adult or a child who wove it, but I'm inclined to suppose that it was the latter. You can just about make out a few flowers and botehs, but the rest of the markings are pure freeform and 'gabbeh'. Often Afshar bags of this shape and size (11" by 7") are folded across the middle and bound only on one side (such as the one posted recently), but this chanteh is bound on both.

Luri gabbeh

2012-01-22T13:40:00.000Z

This unusually freeform composition, loosely centred on a flower medallion, was probably conceived the other way round (according to the run of the pile), but it reads best as it is shown here. Lots of spontaneity and abrash. Purchased from a dealer in England, it measures 9.5" by 12".

Luri chanteh face with inscription

2012-01-22T13:32:00.000Z

Probably Luri because of the coarse weave (although the warps, uncharacteristically, are cotton), this is another chanteh front that I bought because of the inscription. It measures 12" by 11.5", and according to the dealer in Spain from whom I acquired it, the writing says:'Karim Allah Muhammad Ali' (a religious invocation), and the date underneath seems to read '1914'.

Afshar fragment

2012-01-22T13:16:00.001Z

Not really a chanteh, but the front of a small personal bag, so it is close enough to be included here. It measures 21" by 11.5", but the top and bottom are missing, and it would originally have been slightly bigger. Finely woven with a classic composition of two large boteh, I was drawn to it because of the inscription (which Parviz Tanavoli says is rare on Afshar bags and rugs). I don't know what it means. Bought on eBay from a dealer in Holland.

Qashqa'i flatweave chanteh

2012-01-01T13:07:00.000Z

I like the restrained mood of this little bag, which may also stem from the Darrehshuri, who frequently used this pattern on their weavings. I particularly enjoy the small blank sections and short horizontal lines on the edges, which disrupt the regularity of the front. Open at the sides, the bag measures 8.5" by 9.5" and was purchased at an auction in Germany.

Qashqa'i hunting bags

2012-01-01T12:54:00.000Z

This is one of a pair of flatwoven bags, possibly from the Darrehshuri tribe, which each measures 8.5" by 9.5". The other bag, not visible in these images, is almost identical. According to the dealer in Spain from whom I acquired them, they were used as hunting bags - to carry cartridges. If so, this is a fairly uncommon instance of small chanteh definitely being used by men.

Luri double chanteh with figures

2012-01-01T12:44:00.001Z

This coarsely-woven chanteh in a 'gabbeh' style is unusual in as much as it is delberately humourous. Look closely at the shapes in the field and you'll see that they form two figures holding hands! On the other half, illustrated below, there are two animals, probably deer or gazelle. There are a few knots of 'hot' orange knots in the bags - always a favourite colour among the tribal women on South Persia, although much disliked by collectors these days. Purchased from a dealer in Turkey; 10" by 11" each bag.

Bakhtiari double-fronted purse

2012-01-01T12:28:00.000Z

The English dealer from whom I bought this purse (which measures 6.5" by 8") told me that it was made by the Bakhtiari, so this is the attribution I accept, although it could have come from several other South Persian tribes. It is dense and inflexible, curiously thick for a weaving so tiny. I'm very fond of the way in which the weaver has taken such a simple design and, by changing colours and altering the borders, has created a personal object with two quite different moods.

Small 'tile' bag with dramatic back

2012-01-01T12:17:00.000Z

The 'tile' pattern on this flatwoven bag will be familiar from two examples already posted, and the front panel is in some respects rather ordinary (apart from the occasional shifts and slips in the border). But when you take into account the extraordinary kilim back, the piece really turns into something remarkable - every time I look at it I wonder about the sensibility of the weaver who wished to juxtapose such order with wildness. The bag was attributed to the Kurds when I bought it from a dealer in America, but it is more likely to be from South Persia - probably made by a Qashqa'i woman. It measures 13" by 14".

Khamseh small bag with boteh

2012-01-01T12:05:00.002Z

Here is another small bag that was once half of a double. I really like the dramatic contrast between the rather fussy treatment of the boteh and the coarse horizontal chevrons (typical of one of the Khamseh tribes) on the kilim back. It measures 12" by 13" and was acquired from a dealer in England. The small Afshar boteh bag that was posted earlier provides an interesting contrast.

Chanteh with stepped diamond motif

2012-01-01T11:57:00.000Z

Half of a double chanteh (it was once common for dealers to cut them in two, as the value of separate bags was often higher than that of a double), this little bag was attributed to the Qashqa'i when I purchased it from a dealer in Scotland. This may be correct, but I've always had my doubts. I really like the striations in the field, the odd cross motifs in the corners, and the curious mark on the back. One of the more mysterious bags in my collection, it measures 8" by 8.5". There are a couple of synthetic dyes in the mix - for example, the bright orange dots in the white squares in the field.

Afshar flatweave purse

2012-01-01T11:48:00.001Z

When I bought this bag from a German dealer a couple of years ago it was the first time I'd seen a chanteh made in this way (folded in the centre and joined at the edge); since then I've come across several others. It appears to be characteristic of the Afshari. Flatwoven in earthy colours, the chevron pattern may be a distant echo of the 'tree of life' motif. Vertically shaped bags such as this one are sometimes described as 'spindle bags', but this is too small for that, and was almost certainly conceived as a purse or container for small personal articles. It measures 9" by 7.5".

Another Afshar chanteh

2012-01-01T11:36:00.000Z

A typical Afshar inner border accounts for its attribution; otherwise, with the 'Qashqa'i frieze' running across the top of the back and the extra pile border spanning the lower edges of the front and the back, one might have looked elsewhere for its source. The composition, focussed on the cruciform birth motif in the centre of a tiny blue/black field, is cramped, but this gives the bag a certain intensity. It measures 9.5" by 11" and was purchased from an American dealer.

Afshar 'nim-khorjin'

2011-12-31T15:18:00.001Z

To include this in a collection of chanteh is stretching the definition of the term, because it measures 19" by 18" and is really a 'nim-khorjin', a small bag that was used by tribeswomen for their personal possessions - just as chanteh were. But I want to include a few anomalies to demonstrate the fluidity of the genre (and, besides, I've also seen one or two much smaller bags with very similar patterns on the front). The outside border is woven in pile, as is the tiny central motif, which may be a device to avert the 'evil eye'; the bright white areas have been made with cotton. The rather attractive back, woven entirely with wool, has cream-coloured areas instead of white. Purchased from a dealer in America.

Afshar bag with boteh

2011-12-31T15:00:00.000Z

Apparently the Afshar have a name for small bags that are not exactly chanteh: 'nim-khorjin'. This could justifiably be called either. I very much like the way the top row of boteh are 'hidden' under the border, and the way that empty space in the field has been filled with a scattering of small flowers. The colours in the back section are especially attractive, particularly when seen in conjunction with the pile face. It measures 10" by 14" and was purchased from a dealer in Holland.

Afshar 'Banbazari' chanteh front

2011-12-31T14:52:00.000Z

I've seen several versions of this small Afshar chanteh, all woven without much finesse, so it is possible that it was a pattern that Afshari girls occasionally tried their hand at when they were very young. This is the only such bag I've come across with an inscription, which more than makes up for its awful condition. According to the auction catalogue (I bought it in England), the text reads 'Banbazari', which may be a name - but there does appear to be more than one word in the inscription. It measures 9" by 10", and was attributed to the Luri at the auction. The back is missing, but there is about an inch of the madder flatweave still extant below the pile border.

Bakhtiari double chanteh

2011-12-31T14:38:00.001Z

The pattern on this double chanteh (both sides are almost identical) is ubiquitous on large Bakhtiari khorjins, but it is rare to find it on small bags such as these. Just visible on the front, more obvious on the back, is a small section of pile weaving, which the Bakhtiari commonly add to their bags to strengthen the ends. There has obviously been some wear on the flatwoven section between the two pockets, because it has been irregularly joined and mended - this is clearly visible in the photo of the back. Each bag measures 9" by 9", and they were acquired from a collector in America.

Qashqa'i flatweave with long tassels

2011-12-31T14:25:00.002Z

This bag may have been woven by a woman of the Darrehshuri tribe - the pattern on the front is often associated with that section of the Qashqa'i confederacy. The back, with its apparently random constellation of marks, is less skilled than the front, but it is charming nonetheless. The tufts on the front and back appear to have been added to repair and cover up small areas of wear. Measuring 12" by 11", it was acquired at a German auction.

Luri (or Kurdish) flatweave

2011-12-30T14:56:00.000Z

I'm not sure whether this bag is Luri or Kurdish, but it has a coarse vigour that appeals to me - probably because of the strong central band and the two blue/green stripes with 'chain' motifs running on top of them. It is open at the sides, has a couple of disreputable dyes (including the purple on the reverse), and measures 8" by 9". It was bought from a dealer in the USA.

Qashqa'i flatweave with 'tile' motif and long tassels

2011-12-30T14:44:00.000Z

This is another common 'tile' design, this time in fine flatweave. In the centre of the diamonds there is a tiny 'swastika', or sun, motif. Although the colours have become mellow and harmonious with fading and age, the inside of the bag (and one of the tassels) reveal that the orange dye is almost certainly synthetic. No matter - it is a bag with definite style and class - even with the ink stain on the reverse! Acquired at an auction in Germany, it measures 11" by 11" and was probably made in the first quarter of the last century.

Luri with 'tile' motif

2011-12-30T14:34:00.002Z

The 'tile' motif is fairly common in South Persian bags; it may have been inspired, at some distant point, by a classical urban design. Here the tiles are almost unrecognizable as such, but if you look carefully at the central field you'll see the interlocking hexagonal shapes. I'm very fond of the way the borders shift, both in design and colour, while retaining overall shape and order. Coarsely woven, as is typical of Luri pieces, it measures 9" by 9.5". The blue ceramic bead (there were probably others that are now missing) is a traditional decoration that was reputed to help stave off the evil eye. Purchased from dealers in Italy.

Qashqa'i Stripes

2011-12-30T14:18:00.001Z

I've never seen another chanteh like this one. It has a couple of faded synthetic dyes in the mix, which means that it was probably made in the early decades of the last century - a date that chimes with the overall feel of the design. Although South Persian often used stripes in their rugs and bags (often referred to as 'cane' motifs), the diagonal segments give this small purse an oddly western and 'modern' sensibility. The bright whites in the pile front are cotton highlights. It measures 7.5" by 8" and was purchased from a dealer in Scotland. I've never been sure of the Qashqa'i attribution, but that was the name it came with.

Qashqa'i or Luri Flowers and Gazelle

2011-12-30T14:05:00.001Z

The central flower motif turns up from time to time on South Persian khorjins; it has been interpreted as a sun symbol. Measuring 9" by 7", this small bag would actually have been used the other way round - but the image shows the way it was woven. I like the two cramped rows of flowers and the strange mixture of botehs and gazelle: the best South Persian pieces often have a strain of intuitive informality held in tension with a more classical composition. Open at the sides, coarsely woven, and purchased at an auction in Germany.

Bakhtiari flatweave purse

2010-10-16T16:41:00.001+01:00

Another gem - a tiny flatweave purse with birth motifs, woven with obvious care and affection. According to the dealer in Spain from whom I bought it, the piece is Bakhtiari - an attribution that certainly seems likely. 4.5" by 6".

Qashqa'i purse

2010-10-16T16:36:00.000+01:00

A perfect little Qashqa'i purse. Good colours, good wool, and a simple design with many subtle variations. A nice back, too. Purchased from a dealer in Switzerland, it measures 8" by 8".

Afshar gabbeh chanteh

2010-10-16T15:16:00.000+01:00

It is hard to figure out how a mature tribal weaver, who almost always would have drawn on traditional patterns and compositions, could have come up with a design like this. For that reason, as in the previous piece, I imagine that it may have been made by a young girl learning her skills. The cotton warp and brick-red plain back suggest an Afshar attribution. 11" by 12", it came from the same source in the Netherlands as the bag in the previous posting.

South Persian gabbeh chanteh

2010-10-16T15:05:00.001+01:00

This is an example of a totally 'freeform' chanteh design; some would call it 'gabbeh' because of its informality and the thick layers of wefts between each layer of knots. Is it a child's practice piece? Judging from the back, which shows very limited weaving skills, this is a distinct possibility. Cotton warps and wefts suggest an Afshar source, but the coarse knotting may indicate that it is Luri. The white patches in the field are also cotton - a device that tribal weavers often use to give a bag bright highlights. This is the kind of chanteh that most collectors ignore, but I find it interesting, possibly because its casual composition makes it look quite contemporary. 9" by 11", open at the sides, and bought from a dealer in the Netherlands.

Curious Afshar bag face

2010-10-16T13:39:00.005+01:00

This bag face, which measures 15" by 14", probably comes from a small khorjin. At any rate, it is on the upper side of the size of a chanteh. It feels old to me, and the cotton warps and wefts (some of them light blue) suggest an attribution to the Afshar. I'm including it here to show the way that weavers were sometimes inclined to juxtapose traditional patterns with freeform compositions. Other than the mushka at the top (the inverted triangular shape with finger-like extensions, an amulet to ward off the evil eye) I can't make out what is going on in the field, but it is evocative and mysterious. Purchased on eBay from an American antique dealer.

Afshar wedding bag (?)

2010-10-16T13:10:00.006+01:00

Half of a small double bag, this piece was sold to me by a dealer in England. It is unusual and comparatively finely woven; the white ground in the field and the horsemen carrying torches (see entry on a previous Afshar bag) suggest that it may have been a wedding or celebratory gift. The form of the tree in the middle, with the parrot-like birds, is also uncommonly detailed for a chanteh (compared, for example, with the Qashqa'i 'tree of life' in an earlier posting). It has had much use, and the colours - which are natural, as far as I can make out - have faded in the sun. The back has been strengthened at the top and bottom by strips of leather, and there is a tiny patch over a hole. A metal disc, presumably an amulet or religious medal, is visible in the right top corner. It measures 12" by 15".

Afshar medallion double bag

2010-09-18T22:34:00.006+01:00

These small khorjin are less personal than the 'horseman' bags (and therefore probably not really in the spirit of chanteh) but they are worth posting as a contrast. Finely woven and formal, the bags differ slightly from one another. They have a small flatweave panel joining them, and each measures 14" by 15". Purchased from a dealer in England, and quite old.

Afshar 'horseman' double bag

2010-09-18T18:10:00.005+01:00

It is always difficult to decide when a chanteh becomes a khorjin (saddlebag). This is probably more of the latter than the former, but it is small and intimate (which makes me think, perhaps fancifully, that it may have been a gift to a husband or betrothed) so I think it deserves a place here. It was acquired recently from a collector in the US, and it measures 13" by 14" per bag, not including the beautifully patterned kilim joining panel. Figures on bags are comparatively rare. Note the wonderful small animals!

Ed Stott, having seen this posting, drew my attention to a a rug with a comparable motif that is illustrated in Jenny Housego's 'Tribal Rugs'. The horseman, it seems, carrying a bunch of burning twigs, is part of the entourage of a groom on his way to fetch his bride.

Qashqa'i Tree of Life

2010-09-18T17:50:00.004+01:00

An unusual chanteh, probably Qashqa'i, featuring an abbreviated tree of life and a mass of flowers. It was purchased from a dealer in the US. Misshapen, and having had a lot of use in the field, the bag gives the impression of being quite old. 11" by 12", it is very densely woven.

Another flatweave purse

2010-09-18T17:37:00.006+01:00

Judging by its open simplicity and limited weaving skills, I'm inclined to believe that this may have been made by a child, possibly helped out by her mother. Open at the sides, it has a curious asymmetry to the composition on the front (which I like). The motif in the field, like that in the previous post, stems from a very old birth symbol. I bought the bag from an American dealer on eBay, and it is difficult to assign it to a specific South Persian tribe - although there is a 'Qashqa'i frieze' border on the reverse. 7" by 7".

Small flatweave purse

2010-09-18T17:28:00.004+01:00

A small flatweave purse, possibly Qashqa'i, purchased from an American dealer on eBay. The pink highlights may be synthetic, although it is hard to be sure. The main design turns up in various sizes and configurations on many South Persian chanteh. It is a derivation of an archaic birth motif. The back is gently irregular, which is very appealing. 5" by 6".

Luri wagireh chanteh

2010-09-18T16:45:00.003+01:00

A recent purchase, from a dealer in England. It is probably Luri, although this is debatable, particularly as it is more finely woven than most Luri pieces. It looks like a wagireh sampler, as it includes several motifs, including a Memling gul, a shrub branch or tree of life, and an endless knot, as well as scattered flowers and fillers. The zig-zag elements along the top closure panel are also unusual. Good colours, with a striped back, and in great condition. 12" by 12".

'Bird Head' Luri flatweave

2010-09-18T16:27:00.003+01:00

More birds, but in a different form, and in flatweave. A strong and intense composition, with a field made of classic Luri 'bird head' border motifs (which accounts for the attribution). It has an unexpected and beautiful checkered back, and was bought at auction in Germany. 10" by 10".

Khamseh or Qashqa'i 'murgi' bag

2010-09-18T16:10:00.004+01:00

I bought this as a Qashqa'i at an auction in England, but the classic 'four chicken and endless knot' design is often attributed to the Khamseh. The rows of boteh at top and bottom are unusual. It has a red kilim back in the Qashqa'i style, is in very good condition, and - because it is comparatively coarsely 'drawn' - I suspect that it may have been made at a date well into the 20th century. 13" x 13". There is gentle abrash in the madder field.

Luri Dowry Bag

2010-09-18T15:59:00.000+01:00

This is the first bag I bought, over a decade ago, and it came from a dealer in Ireland. It was expensive, but it has given me much pleasure and is still probably the best piece in my collection. It is double-sided, with almost identical designs on both faces, but the one illustrated here has some silk knots in the centre of the cross. It was described to me as a 'dowry bag' when I purchased it, and this is probably true, as the weave quality is high and it has never been used. Almost certainly made by a Luri weaver, it measures 11" by 15".

Khamseh chanteh

2010-09-18T15:55:00.001+01:00

This bag may be a Khamseh, judging by the vernacular use of the Herati pattern, which is typical of the tribes in that confederation. Like two of the Luri bags posted here, it has a cruciform shape at the centre, and in this case there are some knots of silk scattered across the field. The piece is slightly battered, open at the sides, but it is has good deep colours. It measures 10" by 11" and has a striped kilim back. I bought it from a dealer in England.

Sheshboluki chanteh

2010-09-18T10:37:00.002+01:00

This is a Qashqa'i chanteh with a classic four-armed medallion. According to the American dealer from whom I bought it on eBay, it was made by a Sheshboluki weaver. Coarsely woven, with thick wool and good colours; plain red kilim back. 11" by 12".

Luri chanteh with Memling gul

2010-09-18T10:35:00.002+01:00

Another Luri - this time with a Memling gul as its focus and some scattered flowers around it. Good shiny wool and colours, open at the sides, with a striped kilim back. It is half of a pair, was purchased from a dealer in Germany, and measures 10" x 12".

Luri gabbeh chanteh

2010-09-18T10:34:00.002+01:00

The medallion in the Luri chanteh below has degenerated into an inchoate shape. It is impossible to determine, of course, if this was intentional, due to a lack of skill, or perhaps the result of haste. In any event, I like its casual self-assurance. The piece has long shiny wool, is open at the sides, and has a striped kilim back that is visible in the image. There is a faded purple in several of the stripes, which suggests that dye may be fuchsine. It came from a dealer in Belgium and measures 9" by 10".

Luri or Qashqa'i purse

2010-09-18T10:32:00.001+01:00

I bought this small bag from a dealer in England, and it is probably one of the best bags in my collection - it has good wool, colours, design, and a lot of charm. The cruciform motif in the centre suggests that it may be Luri, but it was sold to me as Qashqa'i. It is in fine condition and has a plain kilim back. Probably intended as a purse, it measures 8" by 9".

Chanteh - a description

2010-09-17T15:52:00.006+01:00

‘Chanteh’ are small bags made by nomadic weavers in Iran. They are unpretentious and modest, full of charm and character. In the past they were never made for sale, because ‘chanteh’ are the most personal of tribal weavings. Some, known as ‘dokhtarbaf’ or ‘nashibaf’, were bags made by girls learning skills from their mothers. Such ‘chanteh’ are tiny and as naïve as a child’s drawing. Some, called ‘bibibaf’ or ‘ostadbaf’, were dowry pieces, designed to show a young woman’s skill or mastery of the craft, and thus to demonstrate that she would be an asset to her future husband’s family. Others were made as wedding gifts or to celebrate special occasions, but most commonly they served to carry small objects for personal use. They were private things.

Rugs and carpets, although often made for utilitarian purposes, were also commodities, for ever since the 19th century nomadic Persian womenfolk have contributed substantially to the tribal economy by selling them to dealers and middlemen. Even ‘khorjin’, saddlebags for camels, horses, and donkeys, were often made for sale. ‘Chanteh’ were not, partly because they were personal possessions and also because they had no value in the marketplace.

Their weavers didn’t have business interests in mind when ‘chanteh’ were made; the women were not thinking of profit when they wove these modest bags, nor were they bound by aesthetic rules. They could make what they wanted. As always, they spun sheep’s wool, dyed it with materials such as madder root, pomegranate rind, walnut husks, and vine leaves; they drew on design traditions that were based on ancient motifs and symbols, but they were nonetheless free to create exactly what came to their hands and imagination. Old ‘chanteh’ were the expression of informality and freedom from the expectations of others; it is not insignificant, therefore, that they were very often intended as gifts.

The beginning

2010-09-10T16:28:00.005+01:00

After I bought my first chanteh, over a decade ago, I developed a passion for small South Persian bags. I've tried, since I started to collect them, to steer a course between 'quality' and comprehensiveness, so the pieces you will see here are sometimes beautiful, occasionally rare, and more often representative of a particular style or motif. Most of them, I believe, embody something special, interesting, or unusual, and almost all are intimate and personal.

There is very little written on chanteh, and as far as I'm aware there is only one book devoted to them. This is 'Jayran - Tribal Woman and the Chanteh in Iran' by Parviz Homayounpour, which is now one of the most consulted books in my small rug library. I have learned much by studying its photographs, and I wholeheartedly recommend it.